Semi-automatics, revolvers, long guns... ask questions and offer tips on safe, accurate shooting here.
 #102148  by Dugan
Owen wrote:
Dugan wrote:Yea but for a 30$ piece, its not worth it haha.
True but I wonder if you cut fast and then quenched it right away if that would overcome some of the softening. Kind of like old black smith stuff. Is the edge red hot after cutting? I think the problem is when it is left to air cool relatively slowly.

Sorry, may just be me over-thinking things again. :roll:
It wont be red after cutting, but during it is. Leaves some nice dross on the edge too.
 #102154  by phlydude
Yeah, I was asking about the hardness of the steel. Here is some info on steel suitable for shooting
AR400 steel or AR500 steel?
What kind of steel should I purchase for my targets?

There are two kinds of steel for our targets, AR400 and AR500. By choosing the correct steel for the type of shooting you'll be doing, will help ensure that your targets stay in good condition for a long life.

- For non-magnum, handgun only shooting, choose AR400 and save a bit of money since it is less expensive than AR500 steel. AR400 has a Brinell hardness range of 360-440 BHN.

- For a combination of rifle, shotgun or handgun, choose AR500. AR500 is the most durable of the target steel. While more expensive than AR400 these targets can take the abuse. AR500 has a Brinell hardness range of 477-555 BHN.

Abrasion Resistant (AR400) has a Typical Brinell Hardness range of 360-440

Abrasion Resistant (AR500) has a Typical Brinell Hardness range of 477-555 BHN